A lone fisherman at Puako Beach on Thursday, Oct. 4.
Friday, October 05, 2007
Kamuela, Hawaii
The Mauna Kea Golf Course on Thursday, Oct. 4. There isn't much green on the course, but you have a great view of the ocean.
Well Worth The Wait
Our main objective on Thursday was to eat at Hawaiian Style Cafe -- no matter how long the wait. We arrived in Waimea at 10 and naturally, the restaurant was packed. We waited 15 minutes for a table and another 15 minutes to order, but all the waiting was rewarded. I ordered an omelet with ham, sausage, green peppers and onions and received a massive offering, which had to have been at least four eggs, along with hash browns. My girlfriend had two scrambled eggs and sausage. She also wanted to try the oxtail soup so that came out as a second course, along with the pancakes that came with the eggs. She really liked the soup and I can't rave enough about the pancakes. To steal a phrase from the guidebook, the pancakes were the size of hubcaps. My pet peeve is burnt pancakes and these were cooked perfectly.
After brunch, we decided to visit some of the beaches near our hotel that we hadn't seen yet. The first was Lapakahi State Historical Park, which is only open from 8 to 4. Both times we had past it, it had been closed. We didn't spend much time here, walking past structures from an old Hawaiian village on the way to the beach overlook.
Next was Samuel Spencer Beach Park. Under construction, packed with kids and not very appealing, this was also a quick visit.
From there we entered the Mauna Kea resort, which has a public beach access but a limited amount of parking spots. The hotel is closed due to earthquake damage and it's obvious that they don't want the public entering the resort. Case in point: The guard at the entrance told us all of the public beach spots were full. I talked him into letting us simply drive into the resort to look around. When we reached the beach parking lot, a second guard asked us for our parking pass. I told him the guard at the entrance said the lot was full. He said that was wrong, he had four spaces left and to go back to the entrance to get a pass. We went back to the entrance and the first guard begrudgingly handed me a pass. I didn't mind the games once I saw the beach. White sand beach, crystal clear water and best of all, trees providing shade at the back of the beach.
After leaving Mauna Kea, we drove a couple of miles south to Hapuna Beach State Park. This beach was very similar to Mauna Kea -- and packed -- so we didn't stop. Ditto for 69 Beach. Instead, we drove down the coast to Puako Beach, which was on the rocks and a haven for fishermen.
After brunch, we decided to visit some of the beaches near our hotel that we hadn't seen yet. The first was Lapakahi State Historical Park, which is only open from 8 to 4. Both times we had past it, it had been closed. We didn't spend much time here, walking past structures from an old Hawaiian village on the way to the beach overlook.
Next was Samuel Spencer Beach Park. Under construction, packed with kids and not very appealing, this was also a quick visit.
From there we entered the Mauna Kea resort, which has a public beach access but a limited amount of parking spots. The hotel is closed due to earthquake damage and it's obvious that they don't want the public entering the resort. Case in point: The guard at the entrance told us all of the public beach spots were full. I talked him into letting us simply drive into the resort to look around. When we reached the beach parking lot, a second guard asked us for our parking pass. I told him the guard at the entrance said the lot was full. He said that was wrong, he had four spaces left and to go back to the entrance to get a pass. We went back to the entrance and the first guard begrudgingly handed me a pass. I didn't mind the games once I saw the beach. White sand beach, crystal clear water and best of all, trees providing shade at the back of the beach.
After leaving Mauna Kea, we drove a couple of miles south to Hapuna Beach State Park. This beach was very similar to Mauna Kea -- and packed -- so we didn't stop. Ditto for 69 Beach. Instead, we drove down the coast to Puako Beach, which was on the rocks and a haven for fishermen.
Hilo, Hawaii
Rainbow Falls on Wednesday, Oct. 3. Of the four waterfalls we visited, this one was the best.
Hilo, Hawaii
The featured attaction at the Hilo zoo, a white Bengal tiger named Nemaste', on Wednesday, Oct 3. The zoo will celebrate Nemaste's ninth birthday on Saturday, Oct. 6.
Thursday, October 04, 2007
Hilo Redemption
On Wednesday, it was back to Hilo to see some of the sights we had missed on Sunday. Again, we drove through Waimea during breakfast and again, Hawaiian Style Cafe was packed. This time, we kept driving, arriving in Hilo around 11.
My girlfriend wanted Thai food so we settled on Naung Mai Thai Kitchen, which was in a one-way alley, that I finally found after driving around the block a second time. The place was very small and the buffet style lunch featured five dishes, three of which were vegetarian. I picked the two chicken dishes -- chicken with red curry and samba chicken -- as well as the vegetarian pad thai. I thought both chicken dishes were great, but I wasn't a fan of the pad thai. I like pad thai and I like catsup. But I now know that I don't like them together.
After lunch, we went to the nearby Hilo Farmers Market. There were a ton of food and product vendors and my girlfriend bought a colorful Hawaiian dress. I didn't buy anything but I did pay $25 for a chiropractic adjustment, which made my neck and lower back feel much better.
We left downtown Hilo and headed to Nani Mau Gardens. However, there were several tour buses in the parking lot and we decided to skip this stop and head down the road to the Pana'ewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens. I wasn't expecting much since we've been to the National Zoo in Washington, D.C. and the San Diego Zoo, but Hilo has a pretty nice zoo for a town of its size. There are over 80 species of animals, including the main attraction, Namaste', who is a white Bengal tiger. While at the zoo, we came across Hilo's other claim to fame, its rain. Hilo is one of the wettest cities in the U.S., receiving over 100 inches of rain per year, and halfway through our tour of the zoo, we were drenched by a rain shower.
The rain continued as we hit Hilo's other landmarks, its waterfalls. First was Waiale Falls, which can be seen from the road. Next was Pe'e Pe'e Falls, also known as Wailuku River State Park-Boiling Pots Area. Seeing the Boiling Pots was bittersweet. At dinner on Sunday night in Hilo, the table next to ours had been to the Boiling Post earlier that day when a teenager lost his life jumping into the dangerous, swirling water. Our final stop was Wailuku River State Park-Rainbow Falls Area or simply Rainbow Falls. There were no rainbows today, just steady rainfall.
As it had on Sunday, the rain subsided once we headed North out of Hilo. Again we drove through Waimea on our way back to the West side of the island. We had passed the Bamboo Restaurant in Hawi on both Friday and Saturday and the guidebook raved about it, so we decided to give it a try. Great choice. My tenderloin beef was superb, and my girlfriend's ono was the best fish I have ever had. I also thought the rib appetizer was first rate. This place gets my vote for the best restaurant on the island.
My girlfriend wanted Thai food so we settled on Naung Mai Thai Kitchen, which was in a one-way alley, that I finally found after driving around the block a second time. The place was very small and the buffet style lunch featured five dishes, three of which were vegetarian. I picked the two chicken dishes -- chicken with red curry and samba chicken -- as well as the vegetarian pad thai. I thought both chicken dishes were great, but I wasn't a fan of the pad thai. I like pad thai and I like catsup. But I now know that I don't like them together.
After lunch, we went to the nearby Hilo Farmers Market. There were a ton of food and product vendors and my girlfriend bought a colorful Hawaiian dress. I didn't buy anything but I did pay $25 for a chiropractic adjustment, which made my neck and lower back feel much better.
We left downtown Hilo and headed to Nani Mau Gardens. However, there were several tour buses in the parking lot and we decided to skip this stop and head down the road to the Pana'ewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens. I wasn't expecting much since we've been to the National Zoo in Washington, D.C. and the San Diego Zoo, but Hilo has a pretty nice zoo for a town of its size. There are over 80 species of animals, including the main attraction, Namaste', who is a white Bengal tiger. While at the zoo, we came across Hilo's other claim to fame, its rain. Hilo is one of the wettest cities in the U.S., receiving over 100 inches of rain per year, and halfway through our tour of the zoo, we were drenched by a rain shower.
The rain continued as we hit Hilo's other landmarks, its waterfalls. First was Waiale Falls, which can be seen from the road. Next was Pe'e Pe'e Falls, also known as Wailuku River State Park-Boiling Pots Area. Seeing the Boiling Pots was bittersweet. At dinner on Sunday night in Hilo, the table next to ours had been to the Boiling Post earlier that day when a teenager lost his life jumping into the dangerous, swirling water. Our final stop was Wailuku River State Park-Rainbow Falls Area or simply Rainbow Falls. There were no rainbows today, just steady rainfall.
As it had on Sunday, the rain subsided once we headed North out of Hilo. Again we drove through Waimea on our way back to the West side of the island. We had passed the Bamboo Restaurant in Hawi on both Friday and Saturday and the guidebook raved about it, so we decided to give it a try. Great choice. My tenderloin beef was superb, and my girlfriend's ono was the best fish I have ever had. I also thought the rib appetizer was first rate. This place gets my vote for the best restaurant on the island.
Waikoloa Village, Hawaii
One of the boats at Hilton Waikoloa Village on Tuesday, Oct. 2. The property is so large that boats and a tram are used to transport guests across the property.
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
Kakahi Kai State Park on Tuesday, Oct. 2. Beaches like this are a dime a dozen on the big island of Hawaii.
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
The nearly-empty beach at Kekaha Kai State Park on Tuesday, Oct. 2. The drive to the beach is excruciating, but well worth the trouble.
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
The beach at Koloko-Honokohau National Historic Park on Tuesday, Oct. 2. There were no bare bodies here as suggested by the guidebooks, only bare stretches of beach with few people.
Life's a Beach
On Tuesday morning, we checked out of the Royal Kona Resort and our destination was 30 miles North at the Hilton Waikoala Resort. On the way up the coast, we stopped at several spectacular beaches.
The first beach was Old Kona Airport State Park. The parking lot was on the old runway and the beach was nearly deserted when we arrived. We spent about 30 minutes at this beautiful beach, which is a combination of sand and lava rocks.
Our next stop was Kaloko-Honokohau National Historic Park. According to the guidebooks, this is a nude beach and and the north section is a gay beach. We did see a sign saying nudity was prohibited. However, the beach was normal today, as it was deserted except for a couple of families. It was a decent beach, but since there was construction underway, we didn't stay long.
The next beach was Wawaloli Beach Park, which is located right next to Keahole-Kona International Airport. Wow, words can't describe this beach, hopefully the pictures will do it justice. I'm almost hoping our flight on Friday is delayed or cancelled so we can spend some more time at this place.
Our final beach of the day was Kekaha Kai State Park. If you make it to this beach, you've earned it. It took nearly 20 minutes to navigate this 1.5 mile road, which was like driving on the moon. Here's a tip: Don't ever buy a rental car that was used in Hawaii. The suspension on my Mustang convertible was creaking and groaning throughout this drive. Despite its remote location, there were a lot of people at this beach, which tells you how nice it is.
After our beach tour, we checked into the Hilton Waikoloa Village, which is a monster-sized resort property. The compound is 41 acres and you to get from the lobby to our room, we needed to either take a boat or the tram. For a winning bid of $130 on Priceline, this place was a steal.
After dropping our bags off at the room, we went to lunch at one of the many restaurants on the property, the Kirin Chinese Restaurant. This place was awesome. I ordered the won ton soup and my girlfriend had the hot and sour soup. Both were wonderful; in particular, she ranked hers as among the best she's ever had. I ordered the sizzling beef tenderloin and she had an assortment of dim sum. We were both very pleased with the food. Sure, it was a $100 lunch, but it was well worth the money.
After our late lunch, we explored the huge property, which took several hours. Among the highlights: Numerous pools, include one for adults only; a pool with a water slide and several waterfalls; a sand beach lagoon for sunbathing and snorkeling; a rock beach on the oceanfront. It doesn't bother me, but if you want to be picky, this resort does not have a sand beach on the oceanfront, but there are several within close driving distance, which we plan to explore later in the week.
At the end of our walk, the sun was close to setting so we found a hammock near the water and watched and relaxed for about 20 minutes. A rain shower sent us scurrying to some beach chairs with a cover for just such an occasion. About 20 minutes before sunset, clouds filled the horizon and we headed back to the room. Instead of dressing up for dinner, we ordered room service, which was decent, but nothing spectacular. We plan to eat at one of the formal restaurants on Thursday -- formal in Hawaii being slacks and a Hawaiian shirt for the men and a dress for the women.
The first beach was Old Kona Airport State Park. The parking lot was on the old runway and the beach was nearly deserted when we arrived. We spent about 30 minutes at this beautiful beach, which is a combination of sand and lava rocks.
Our next stop was Kaloko-Honokohau National Historic Park. According to the guidebooks, this is a nude beach and and the north section is a gay beach. We did see a sign saying nudity was prohibited. However, the beach was normal today, as it was deserted except for a couple of families. It was a decent beach, but since there was construction underway, we didn't stay long.
The next beach was Wawaloli Beach Park, which is located right next to Keahole-Kona International Airport. Wow, words can't describe this beach, hopefully the pictures will do it justice. I'm almost hoping our flight on Friday is delayed or cancelled so we can spend some more time at this place.
Our final beach of the day was Kekaha Kai State Park. If you make it to this beach, you've earned it. It took nearly 20 minutes to navigate this 1.5 mile road, which was like driving on the moon. Here's a tip: Don't ever buy a rental car that was used in Hawaii. The suspension on my Mustang convertible was creaking and groaning throughout this drive. Despite its remote location, there were a lot of people at this beach, which tells you how nice it is.
After our beach tour, we checked into the Hilton Waikoloa Village, which is a monster-sized resort property. The compound is 41 acres and you to get from the lobby to our room, we needed to either take a boat or the tram. For a winning bid of $130 on Priceline, this place was a steal.
After dropping our bags off at the room, we went to lunch at one of the many restaurants on the property, the Kirin Chinese Restaurant. This place was awesome. I ordered the won ton soup and my girlfriend had the hot and sour soup. Both were wonderful; in particular, she ranked hers as among the best she's ever had. I ordered the sizzling beef tenderloin and she had an assortment of dim sum. We were both very pleased with the food. Sure, it was a $100 lunch, but it was well worth the money.
After our late lunch, we explored the huge property, which took several hours. Among the highlights: Numerous pools, include one for adults only; a pool with a water slide and several waterfalls; a sand beach lagoon for sunbathing and snorkeling; a rock beach on the oceanfront. It doesn't bother me, but if you want to be picky, this resort does not have a sand beach on the oceanfront, but there are several within close driving distance, which we plan to explore later in the week.
At the end of our walk, the sun was close to setting so we found a hammock near the water and watched and relaxed for about 20 minutes. A rain shower sent us scurrying to some beach chairs with a cover for just such an occasion. About 20 minutes before sunset, clouds filled the horizon and we headed back to the room. Instead of dressing up for dinner, we ordered room service, which was decent, but nothing spectacular. We plan to eat at one of the formal restaurants on Thursday -- formal in Hawaii being slacks and a Hawaiian shirt for the men and a dress for the women.
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
The ceremonial lighting of the torches to begin the Royal Kona Resort luau on Monday, Oct. 1.
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
Ceremony to unearth the cooked pig at the Royal Kona Resort luau on Monday, Oct. 1
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
Kahaluu Beach Park on Monday, Oct. 1. It doesn't look like much from this picture, but this is a very popular beach for snorkelers.
Wednesday, October 03, 2007
Luau at Last
Monday was wedding day so we didn't venture too far from the hotel, as we had to be back in time to get ready for the 3 p.m. ceremony. Around 11 a.m., we headed back to L&L Hawaiian Barbecue. We both had the same thing again -- Hawaiian BBQ mix for me, Teriyaki beef for her. Maybe the novelty of Hawaiian food has worn off; I thought the BBQ was good, but not spectacular as I had proclaimed before.
On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a couple of local Kona beaches. The first was Kahaluu Beach Park, which was listed as a gem in the guidebook. The beach itself is nothing special, but the crystal clear water is perfect for snorkeling.
Next up was La'Aloa Bay Beach Park, also known as White Sands Beach Park. You'll never guess what this park is known for. Despite being a Monday, the beach was full of sunbathers and swimmers. This beach was not listed as a gem but I give it high marks for the white beach and blue water.
Last on the Kona beach tour was Pahoehoe Beach Park, which was simply a park overlooking a beach. This park was nearly empty, featuring palm trees, grass, a seawall and a beach full of rocks.
The wedding was held on a lagoon overlooking the ocean and finished quickly, ending on cue just before a rain shower. The luau at Royal Kona Resort also served as the wedding reception and drinks were flowing. The luau mai tais were watered down so several trips were made to the hotel bar for stiff mai tais and cold Big Waves.
Soon it was time for the ceremonial unveiling of the pig, which had been cooking in the Imu (Hawaiian Earth Oven) for eight hours. The pig was cooked perfectly, as it fell apart when it was removed from the oven and hit the serving table.
When it was my turn at the buffet table, I loaded up the plate provided with four compartments. Salad went into the small one, macaroni salad next to it. And then the pig, beef and chicken filled up the remaining area of the plate. The luau food was solid -- except for the poi, which looked like baby food and tasted worse.
The show was fairly entertaining, even though the guy twirling the fire had an off night, dropping the spear twice. Luckily for him, he didn't catch the stage on fire.
On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a couple of local Kona beaches. The first was Kahaluu Beach Park, which was listed as a gem in the guidebook. The beach itself is nothing special, but the crystal clear water is perfect for snorkeling.
Next up was La'Aloa Bay Beach Park, also known as White Sands Beach Park. You'll never guess what this park is known for. Despite being a Monday, the beach was full of sunbathers and swimmers. This beach was not listed as a gem but I give it high marks for the white beach and blue water.
Last on the Kona beach tour was Pahoehoe Beach Park, which was simply a park overlooking a beach. This park was nearly empty, featuring palm trees, grass, a seawall and a beach full of rocks.
The wedding was held on a lagoon overlooking the ocean and finished quickly, ending on cue just before a rain shower. The luau at Royal Kona Resort also served as the wedding reception and drinks were flowing. The luau mai tais were watered down so several trips were made to the hotel bar for stiff mai tais and cold Big Waves.
Soon it was time for the ceremonial unveiling of the pig, which had been cooking in the Imu (Hawaiian Earth Oven) for eight hours. The pig was cooked perfectly, as it fell apart when it was removed from the oven and hit the serving table.
When it was my turn at the buffet table, I loaded up the plate provided with four compartments. Salad went into the small one, macaroni salad next to it. And then the pig, beef and chicken filled up the remaining area of the plate. The luau food was solid -- except for the poi, which looked like baby food and tasted worse.
The show was fairly entertaining, even though the guy twirling the fire had an off night, dropping the spear twice. Luckily for him, he didn't catch the stage on fire.
Ninole, Hawaii
While the area is pretty, Umauma Falls won't be confused with Niagara Falls anytime soon.
Laupahoehoe, Hawaii
Looking down from Hawaii Belt Road to Laupahoehoe Point Park on Sunday, Sept. 30. A tsunami destroyed much of this picturesque area in 1946.
Tuesday, October 02, 2007
Honokaa, Hawaii
A shot of Waipio Valley Lookout on Sunday, Sept. 30. The beach below is accessible for those with four-wheel drive vehicles. If you click on the picture to enlarge it and look closely, you can see some people on the beach.
Hello, Hilo?
Sunday started with the now familiar drive North on the interior Hawaii Belt Road to Kamuela, also known as Waimea. We had read good things about Hawaiian Style Cafe and planned to stop there for breakfast. However, there were numerous people outside the small restaurant and the wait was 30 minutes or more. Instead, we settled on the Paniolo Country Inn. I was a little skeptical when the bouncer turned out to be our waiter, but the food arrived quickly and it was a good standard American breakfast. I had a two egg omelet with ham, mushrooms and green peppers and sides of bacon and toast. My girlfriend had scrambled eggs with sausage.
Satisfied and full, we continued Northeast on the Hawaii Belt Road for the first time. I took a scenic route parallel to the main road for about 10 miles, which ended in Honokaa. We then went Northwest for about five miles until the road ended at a spectacular lookout of the Waipio Valley. (This was actually about 10 miles away from the Pololu Valley lookout we had seen on Friday.) We were asked which one was better. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves and only say that they are equally as impressive.
On the way to Hilo, we stopped at the Kalopa Native Forest State Park, which is basically in the middle of nowhere. There were only a handful of people in this park, which was reminiscent of a rain forest.
Our next stop was Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park, which is one of our favorite parks to date. In 1946, a tsunami wiped out the community living in this picturesque spot. In 1988, the Army Corps of Engineers constructed a harbor with concrete barriers. There is no real beach at this site, but rather a boat launch and lava rocks. However, the water is a brilliant blue as you will ee from the pictures.
We then went to World Botanical Gardens and Umauma Falls. The falls were nice, but to be honest, it was kind of a letdown. I was expecting something more impressive. The Botanical Gardens were nice, but nothing extraordinary. I guess this is the "B" tour; we hope to hit nearby Akaka Falls and the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens, which is located on the coast.
Speaking of the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens, we drove past the entrance on a four-mile scenic drive. However, we did not stop as it was getting late, we were hungry and Hilo was ahead. (Before the four-mile scenic drive, we did make a quick stop at Kolekole Beach County Park, which is located underneath a bridge on Hawaii Belt Rd. Not much to report, other than it was probably a nice park in the 70s.)
Our next stop was Hilo. And with hindsight being 20/20, I should have kept driving. I wasn't expecting much in Hilo, yet I was still let down. At 4 p.m. on a Sunday in the main downtown area, how hard should it be to find a restaurant that is open? In Hilo, the answer is extremely difficult. We had read good things about Pescatore, but unfortunately it didn't open until 5:30. We kept walking. We also heard good things about Royal Siam Thai Restaurant. The sign in the window said they were on vacation until Sept. 31, which I guess is either forever or means they won't be coming back. We finally found a restaurant open, which was Cafe Pesto. Too bad they weren't closed, as well. While I did really like the shrimp chowder and my girlfriend enjoyed her tomato vanilla soup, the entrees were average, at best. I had the beef stroganoff and used about 1/4 of the salt shaker on it. My girlfriend used another 1/4 of the shaker on her dish. The service was spotty, as well. This place gets a definite thumbs down. And if Zagat's has this as "Hawaii's Top Restaurants" that is bad sign for food on the island.
We left Hilo and made the long drive back to Kona using the same route through the Northern mountains. That was another mistake. While the Southern route may have been longer, it would have been a lot easier driving than the 1 1/2 hours I spent navigating the winding, mountain roads in pouring rain.
Satisfied and full, we continued Northeast on the Hawaii Belt Road for the first time. I took a scenic route parallel to the main road for about 10 miles, which ended in Honokaa. We then went Northwest for about five miles until the road ended at a spectacular lookout of the Waipio Valley. (This was actually about 10 miles away from the Pololu Valley lookout we had seen on Friday.) We were asked which one was better. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves and only say that they are equally as impressive.
On the way to Hilo, we stopped at the Kalopa Native Forest State Park, which is basically in the middle of nowhere. There were only a handful of people in this park, which was reminiscent of a rain forest.
Our next stop was Laupahoehoe Point Beach Park, which is one of our favorite parks to date. In 1946, a tsunami wiped out the community living in this picturesque spot. In 1988, the Army Corps of Engineers constructed a harbor with concrete barriers. There is no real beach at this site, but rather a boat launch and lava rocks. However, the water is a brilliant blue as you will ee from the pictures.
We then went to World Botanical Gardens and Umauma Falls. The falls were nice, but to be honest, it was kind of a letdown. I was expecting something more impressive. The Botanical Gardens were nice, but nothing extraordinary. I guess this is the "B" tour; we hope to hit nearby Akaka Falls and the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens, which is located on the coast.
Speaking of the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens, we drove past the entrance on a four-mile scenic drive. However, we did not stop as it was getting late, we were hungry and Hilo was ahead. (Before the four-mile scenic drive, we did make a quick stop at Kolekole Beach County Park, which is located underneath a bridge on Hawaii Belt Rd. Not much to report, other than it was probably a nice park in the 70s.)
Our next stop was Hilo. And with hindsight being 20/20, I should have kept driving. I wasn't expecting much in Hilo, yet I was still let down. At 4 p.m. on a Sunday in the main downtown area, how hard should it be to find a restaurant that is open? In Hilo, the answer is extremely difficult. We had read good things about Pescatore, but unfortunately it didn't open until 5:30. We kept walking. We also heard good things about Royal Siam Thai Restaurant. The sign in the window said they were on vacation until Sept. 31, which I guess is either forever or means they won't be coming back. We finally found a restaurant open, which was Cafe Pesto. Too bad they weren't closed, as well. While I did really like the shrimp chowder and my girlfriend enjoyed her tomato vanilla soup, the entrees were average, at best. I had the beef stroganoff and used about 1/4 of the salt shaker on it. My girlfriend used another 1/4 of the shaker on her dish. The service was spotty, as well. This place gets a definite thumbs down. And if Zagat's has this as "Hawaii's Top Restaurants" that is bad sign for food on the island.
We left Hilo and made the long drive back to Kona using the same route through the Northern mountains. That was another mistake. While the Southern route may have been longer, it would have been a lot easier driving than the 1 1/2 hours I spent navigating the winding, mountain roads in pouring rain.
Monday, October 01, 2007
Hawi, Hawaii
The underwhelming beach area at Mahukona Beach Park on Saturday, Sept. 29. This was actually better than the beach at nearby Kapaa Park, which was deserted and featured a building that was condemned with warnings not to drink the water.
Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
A view of of Keauhou Bay from the public beach at the Sheraton in Kona on Saturday, Sept. 29.
Kealakekua, Hawaii
An empty coffee bean drying surface on Saturday, Sept. 29. Like the retractable roof on a baseball stadium, in the event of rain, workers can quickly cover the coffee beans using a roof on wheels.
Kealakekua, Hawaii
A truck full of coffee plant pulp on Saturday, Sept. 29. To the front left of the truck, hundreds of pounds of coffee beans are being dried.
Kealakekua, Hawaii
Rows of coffee plants at Greenwell Farms on Saturday, Sept. 29. Notice the narrow rows between the plants; the introduction of All Terrain Vehicle (ATVs) means that a couple hundred more plants per acre can now be produced as opposed to when trucks where used by workers in the harvesting of the coffee plant.
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Kona Known for Coffee
Saturday started with a tour of Greenwall Farms, a famous Kona coffee grower in nearby Kealakekua. I'm not a coffee drinker, but nonetheless, the tour of the farm was an interesting experience. It started with a coffee tasting session of about seven types. I tried the Medium Roast, which I later found out has more caffeine than two shots of espresso. It tasted to me like, well, coffee. Other interesting tidbits I picked up during the tour: Starbucks buys coffee from Greenwell Farms and uses a blend of 90% Kona, 10% Starbucks; Greenwell Farms uses a process to remove acidity from the coffee, something that most others do not; Kona coffee gets its taste, which so many people love, from the volcanic ash in the soil.
After the tour, we had intended to head South, but massive road construction changed those plans. Instead, we headed back to Kona and stopped at L&L Hawaiian Barbecue for a late lunch. Good choice. While considered fast food, this place was nothing short of spectacular. I ordered the Hawaiian BBQ mix, which featured beef, chicken and short ribs. The meat is marinated in a bunch of Hawaiian spices, grilled and then served plate lunch style. The two sides were rice and a macaroni salad that was the best I've ever tasted.
Stuffed, we headed the same direction as the day before, up the interior road toward Waimea. Then from Waimea we went Northwest toward the coast where we some some unspectacular beach parks. Naturally, by the time we got close to the exotic beach spots, it was dark so we headed back to Kona. Those will have to wait until later in the week when we are staying on the Kohala Coast, featuring mega-resorts and picturesque beaches.
For dinner, we walked into downtown Kona and ate at the Thai Rin Restaurant. After a long day of driving, I was ready for a beer -- a Big Wave to be exact. Unfortunately, despite the dinner rush being over, the service was horrible and it took 15 minutes to get our drinks. I wasn't expecting much better from the food. But I was wrong. Beef in oyster sauce is probably my favorite dish Thai (or Chinese) dish. This place made it perfectly. After talking it over, I decided the reason I liked it so much was that other than the great taste, they had mushrooms, celery and carrots, in addition to the standard onions and green peppers. Those are the vegetables I like the most in Thai (or Chinese) food, and they had included all of them. Which brought me to another thought. Why do the Thai and Chinese places decide which vegetables go in which dishes? Why can't the customer decide? After all, when you order a pizza, you don't let the chef pick the toppings, do you?
After the tour, we had intended to head South, but massive road construction changed those plans. Instead, we headed back to Kona and stopped at L&L Hawaiian Barbecue for a late lunch. Good choice. While considered fast food, this place was nothing short of spectacular. I ordered the Hawaiian BBQ mix, which featured beef, chicken and short ribs. The meat is marinated in a bunch of Hawaiian spices, grilled and then served plate lunch style. The two sides were rice and a macaroni salad that was the best I've ever tasted.
Stuffed, we headed the same direction as the day before, up the interior road toward Waimea. Then from Waimea we went Northwest toward the coast where we some some unspectacular beach parks. Naturally, by the time we got close to the exotic beach spots, it was dark so we headed back to Kona. Those will have to wait until later in the week when we are staying on the Kohala Coast, featuring mega-resorts and picturesque beaches.
For dinner, we walked into downtown Kona and ate at the Thai Rin Restaurant. After a long day of driving, I was ready for a beer -- a Big Wave to be exact. Unfortunately, despite the dinner rush being over, the service was horrible and it took 15 minutes to get our drinks. I wasn't expecting much better from the food. But I was wrong. Beef in oyster sauce is probably my favorite dish Thai (or Chinese) dish. This place made it perfectly. After talking it over, I decided the reason I liked it so much was that other than the great taste, they had mushrooms, celery and carrots, in addition to the standard onions and green peppers. Those are the vegetables I like the most in Thai (or Chinese) food, and they had included all of them. Which brought me to another thought. Why do the Thai and Chinese places decide which vegetables go in which dishes? Why can't the customer decide? After all, when you order a pizza, you don't let the chef pick the toppings, do you?
Saturday, September 29, 2007
First Full Day Frenzy
On Friday, we left the hotel around 9 a.m. and headed up the interior of the island. Our first stop was in the cloud forest just outside of Kalaoa, which we accessed through a winding mountain road that took us from near sea level to around 6,000 feet in about 20 minutes. It was partly sunny on the coast, but true to its name, this mountain was cloudy and the view of the coast was somewhat obscured.
From there, we drove to the crossroads town of Kamuela, commonly known as Waimea, where we had lunch at Charley's Thai Cuisine. Since my girlfriend is Thai, we decided we would sample several Hawaiian Thai restaurants during the week to see how they compared to those on the mainland. This was the first one. I ordered a plate lunch of beef ribs, sticky rice and papaya salad, while she had squid salad and Tom Yum soup. I liked the food and agreed that it was a bit different than our normal Thai fare. She liked her squid salad and said was prepared in more of a Vietnamese fashion - with peanuts - and my grilled ribs definitely had a Korean BBQ taste to them, as the waiter had suggested. This mix of styles makes sense as we were told the owner, Charley, is from Laos.
From Waimea, we headed West back to the coast and then took the coast road north and then east. After going through a couple of towns and then the country side featuring several one lane bridges and switchbacks, we arrived at Pololu Valley Lookout. Words can't describe this place, other than to say that the green of the valley and the cliffs of the beach reminded me of my trip to Ireland. There was a trail down the overlook to the beach and it appeared to be very steep. Two hikers took up the challenge and were heading down as we left.
Our next stop was about five miles away at Keokea Beach Park, filled with many locals surfing out past a man-made rock barrier. The guidebooks didn't care for it much, but I thought it was a neat little local park.
The wedding party was hosting a dinner at six so we headed back west and then south to the hotel, making the two hour drive in two-and-a-half hours thanks to traffic and construction outside of Kona.
After quickly changing, we went 30 miles north to the Canoe House restaurant, which is on the grounds of the Mauna Lani Resort. While the guidebooks warned that the restaurant was not as good since famous Hawaiian chef Alan Wong departed, I thought it turned out to be a great choice for a party of about 20. The outside tables were overlooking the beach, we saw a partial sunset, and both the food and service were top-notch.
From there, we drove to the crossroads town of Kamuela, commonly known as Waimea, where we had lunch at Charley's Thai Cuisine. Since my girlfriend is Thai, we decided we would sample several Hawaiian Thai restaurants during the week to see how they compared to those on the mainland. This was the first one. I ordered a plate lunch of beef ribs, sticky rice and papaya salad, while she had squid salad and Tom Yum soup. I liked the food and agreed that it was a bit different than our normal Thai fare. She liked her squid salad and said was prepared in more of a Vietnamese fashion - with peanuts - and my grilled ribs definitely had a Korean BBQ taste to them, as the waiter had suggested. This mix of styles makes sense as we were told the owner, Charley, is from Laos.
From Waimea, we headed West back to the coast and then took the coast road north and then east. After going through a couple of towns and then the country side featuring several one lane bridges and switchbacks, we arrived at Pololu Valley Lookout. Words can't describe this place, other than to say that the green of the valley and the cliffs of the beach reminded me of my trip to Ireland. There was a trail down the overlook to the beach and it appeared to be very steep. Two hikers took up the challenge and were heading down as we left.
Our next stop was about five miles away at Keokea Beach Park, filled with many locals surfing out past a man-made rock barrier. The guidebooks didn't care for it much, but I thought it was a neat little local park.
The wedding party was hosting a dinner at six so we headed back west and then south to the hotel, making the two hour drive in two-and-a-half hours thanks to traffic and construction outside of Kona.
After quickly changing, we went 30 miles north to the Canoe House restaurant, which is on the grounds of the Mauna Lani Resort. While the guidebooks warned that the restaurant was not as good since famous Hawaiian chef Alan Wong departed, I thought it turned out to be a great choice for a party of about 20. The outside tables were overlooking the beach, we saw a partial sunset, and both the food and service were top-notch.
Friday, September 28, 2007
An All Day Affair
Day 1 of the trip, Thursday, was a very long travel day. My girlfriend and I arrived at Baltimore-Washington International Airport at 5:30 a.m. ET after spending the night at a Red Roof Inn near the airport. (Normally, I prefer properties such as Marriott, but $200 was way too much for an airport hotel and I "settled" for the $69 Red Roof Inn.) After changing planes twice (Houston and Honolulu), renting a convertible at Kona International Airport and then driving through rush-hour and construction traffic in Kona, we made it to our hotel around 6:30 p.m. HT (11:30 p.m. ET). We are staying at the Royal Kona Resort (where the wedding will be held on Monday afternoon on the beach) and the balcony from our hotel room overlooks the Pacific Ocean.
After 18 hours of travel, I was ready for bed. However, while unpacking, the hotel's fire alarm went off. We decided to take this as our cue to eat a late dinner. From the reviews I have read, the food in our hotel leaves a bit to be desired. Since we are within walking distance of downtown Kona, we headed toward town.
We decided on Huggo's, which is on the water, right next to the hotel. The good news is that our table was on the water, with waves crashing below. Unfortunately, it was already dark and we had missed the sunset. (Kona is on the West end of the Big Island.) A couple of guide books had recommended Huggo's and our first dining experience in Hawaii was a good one. My girlfriend's seafood pasta was full of fish and shrimp and my prime rib hit the spot. I've also found my favorite Hawaiian beer -- Big Wave Golden Ale.
Not much to report on our first day in Hawaii. But Friday's plans include a drive up the coast to check out some beaches and dinner with the wedding party at one of the big resorts North of Kona.
After 18 hours of travel, I was ready for bed. However, while unpacking, the hotel's fire alarm went off. We decided to take this as our cue to eat a late dinner. From the reviews I have read, the food in our hotel leaves a bit to be desired. Since we are within walking distance of downtown Kona, we headed toward town.
We decided on Huggo's, which is on the water, right next to the hotel. The good news is that our table was on the water, with waves crashing below. Unfortunately, it was already dark and we had missed the sunset. (Kona is on the West end of the Big Island.) A couple of guide books had recommended Huggo's and our first dining experience in Hawaii was a good one. My girlfriend's seafood pasta was full of fish and shrimp and my prime rib hit the spot. I've also found my favorite Hawaiian beer -- Big Wave Golden Ale.
Not much to report on our first day in Hawaii. But Friday's plans include a drive up the coast to check out some beaches and dinner with the wedding party at one of the big resorts North of Kona.
Hawaii Trip - Prologue
Past entries on this blog have been about my experiences during several cross country trips on Amtrak. To add to the challenge of keeping a blog, I attempted to post those stories and pictures in real time. Back then, I called this blog The Great American Travelogue Experiment. My first posts were in May of 2005 when I rode the Sunset Limited from Los Angeles to Orlando. At the time, I thought the future of this route was in grave danger due to annual Amtrak budget cuts by Congress. I was right -- but for the wrong reason. Three months after my trip, Hurricane Katrina devastated the Gulf Coast and wiped out some of the track between New Orleans and Orlando. More than two years later, the full route has not resumed and probably never will. I was probably one of the last few people to take pictures on this stretch of track and probably one of the first to attempt to do so in real-time. I made two subsequent Amtrak trips that I documented in real time -- one if February of 2006 and another in August of 2006.
Now, one year later, the blog is back. However, this time it is no longer an experiment nor does it require the constant, daily grind necessary to properly document things in real time. Instead, this is now The Great American Travelogue Experience. It won't be virtual and may not even be updated daily during the trips it will be documenting. But hopefully, this slower pace will produce better thoughts and better pictures -- as well as a more enjoyable experience.
The first trip I will be documenting is a wedding/vacation in Kailua-Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii from Sept. 27 to Oct. 6.
Now, one year later, the blog is back. However, this time it is no longer an experiment nor does it require the constant, daily grind necessary to properly document things in real time. Instead, this is now The Great American Travelogue Experience. It won't be virtual and may not even be updated daily during the trips it will be documenting. But hopefully, this slower pace will produce better thoughts and better pictures -- as well as a more enjoyable experience.
The first trip I will be documenting is a wedding/vacation in Kailua-Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii from Sept. 27 to Oct. 6.
Tuesday, August 29, 2006
Adios, Amtrak?
We arrive at Sacramento at 9:39, which is 7:24 late, and the delays continue between Davis and Martinez. When we finally reach Emeryville, it is around midnight. We should have been there at 4:49 p.m., checked in, had drinks and dinner. Instead, we go right from the station to the hotel. Our wake-up call is in five hours.
Early Tuesday morning, we take Caltrain No. 210 at 6:45 a.m. from San Francisco to Santa Clara. The trip takes about an hour and costs $6.75 per person. We then take a free shuttle bus from the Santa Clara station to the San Jose Airport, arriving at 8:45. Our American Airlines Express flight to San Diego does not leave until 11:45, but we are able to get on an earlier flight, which leaves at 9:52. Security takes less than five minutes and we have little time to wait for the flight.
After the excruciating experience of yesterday, the trip from San Francisco to San Jose to San Diego via public rail and air is surprisingly easy and takes a little over four hours - less than the time it took to go 186 miles from Winnemucca to Sparks, Nevada. I hate to say it, but it may be time to say Adios, Amtrak.
Monday, August 28, 2006
UP, U SUCK
Despite being a whopping 6:22 behind schedule leaving Truckee, CA, I don’t feel all that bad after seeing picturesque Lake Donner.
Of course, that all changes five minutes later, when at 5:10, we have to wait 47 minutes for an eastbound UP freight train coming up the mountain.
You know, these freight delays are getting out of hand. Coast Starlate, meet your brother, the California Forever.
If today is any indication, that letter Amtrak sent to Union Pacific about the legal and contractual obligation of UP to keep Amtrak trains moving isn’t working. In fact, it appears to be making things even worse. After costing me a minimum of seven hours today, my message to Union Pacific is the same one I give their engine when it finally chugs past: A nice, big one-fingered salute.
Of course, that all changes five minutes later, when at 5:10, we have to wait 47 minutes for an eastbound UP freight train coming up the mountain.
You know, these freight delays are getting out of hand. Coast Starlate, meet your brother, the California Forever.
If today is any indication, that letter Amtrak sent to Union Pacific about the legal and contractual obligation of UP to keep Amtrak trains moving isn’t working. In fact, it appears to be making things even worse. After costing me a minimum of seven hours today, my message to Union Pacific is the same one I give their engine when it finally chugs past: A nice, big one-fingered salute.
Sparks At Last
At 3:15, just outside of Sparks, we stop to obtain a permit to use a UP track not normally used by Amtrak. We receive permit No. 973, which is good until 4 p.m.
When we finally arrive in Sparks, it is 3:24 p.m. and we are 6:29 behind schedule. We change the crew in Reno and leave at 3:38 p.m., which puts us 6:24 behind.
Since my last trip on the Zephyr, Reno’s station has changed. Instead of stopping above ground with a view of the city and casinos, we now stop below ground. You have to give Reno officials credit on two accounts: The Zephyr no longer blocks the streets near the casinos and passengers don’t get to see just how outdated and rundown the hotels are in the downtown area. How is that for a sleight of hand?
As far as the near collision, nothing new to report. When asked, the engineer said he didn’t get the license plate of the tractor trailer. During the crew change in Reno, he was seen shaking his head while leaving with the conductor, obviously discussing the incident. My hat goes off to him for being quick on the brakes.
When we finally arrive in Sparks, it is 3:24 p.m. and we are 6:29 behind schedule. We change the crew in Reno and leave at 3:38 p.m., which puts us 6:24 behind.
Since my last trip on the Zephyr, Reno’s station has changed. Instead of stopping above ground with a view of the city and casinos, we now stop below ground. You have to give Reno officials credit on two accounts: The Zephyr no longer blocks the streets near the casinos and passengers don’t get to see just how outdated and rundown the hotels are in the downtown area. How is that for a sleight of hand?
As far as the near collision, nothing new to report. When asked, the engineer said he didn’t get the license plate of the tractor trailer. During the crew change in Reno, he was seen shaking his head while leaving with the conductor, obviously discussing the incident. My hat goes off to him for being quick on the brakes.
Near Collision In Nevada
I wake up on Monday at 6:35 a.m. PT, 10 minutes before our station stop in Elko, NV. Thinking it may be a smoke/stretch-your-legs break, I quickly put on my clothes and go to the bathroom to put in my contacts. However, it is a quick one-minute stop and we depart at 6:50. We have lost more than 30 minutes during the night and are now 3:29 down for the trip.
We eat breakfast (leftover cheesecake from last night’s dinner and a cinnamon bun I bought in Grand Junction) as the Utah mountainous desert goes by.
Around 9 a.m., outside of Battle Mountain, NV, we slow to about 30 mph. On the scanner, I hear the conductor ask the engineer if we are behind a freight train. He gives a cryptic yes and no answer, saying we are behind a freight train, but not directly behind it and the freight is doing well.
At 9:20, I hear the tail end of a conversation on the scanner that worries me. I can’t tell if it is our train talking to the dispatcher, but someone is told that they are doing switch work at the border, it won’t be finished until 2:30 p.m. and to plan accordingly. I assume it is the Nevada/California border, but I’m not sure as I missed the beginning of the transmission. We are scheduled to be at Reno at the time of this conversation, but should now be there around 1 p.m. If we sit for a while, I guess I’ll know the reason.
Outside of Winnemucca, we stop at a red signal for 15 minute before we are given permission by the UP dispatcher to pass the signal.
Winnemucca features a triple stop – the first to change the crew, the second for the diner car and the third for a smoke/stretch break.
We left Winnemucca at 10:50, which put us 4:37 behind schedule
We were restricted to 30 for most of the way from Winnemucca to Sparks.
At 2:45, we made an emergency stop as a truck was backing up on the crossing, according to the engineer. I knew something was up when I heard the brakes squeal as we came to a stop. I think the 30 mph limit may have save us from hitting the truck.
The train was inspected and we resumed five minutes later.
We eat breakfast (leftover cheesecake from last night’s dinner and a cinnamon bun I bought in Grand Junction) as the Utah mountainous desert goes by.
Around 9 a.m., outside of Battle Mountain, NV, we slow to about 30 mph. On the scanner, I hear the conductor ask the engineer if we are behind a freight train. He gives a cryptic yes and no answer, saying we are behind a freight train, but not directly behind it and the freight is doing well.
At 9:20, I hear the tail end of a conversation on the scanner that worries me. I can’t tell if it is our train talking to the dispatcher, but someone is told that they are doing switch work at the border, it won’t be finished until 2:30 p.m. and to plan accordingly. I assume it is the Nevada/California border, but I’m not sure as I missed the beginning of the transmission. We are scheduled to be at Reno at the time of this conversation, but should now be there around 1 p.m. If we sit for a while, I guess I’ll know the reason.
Outside of Winnemucca, we stop at a red signal for 15 minute before we are given permission by the UP dispatcher to pass the signal.
Winnemucca features a triple stop – the first to change the crew, the second for the diner car and the third for a smoke/stretch break.
We left Winnemucca at 10:50, which put us 4:37 behind schedule
We were restricted to 30 for most of the way from Winnemucca to Sparks.
At 2:45, we made an emergency stop as a truck was backing up on the crossing, according to the engineer. I knew something was up when I heard the brakes squeal as we came to a stop. I think the 30 mph limit may have save us from hitting the truck.
The train was inspected and we resumed five minutes later.
Rocky Mountain Relaxation
At 9:26, just outside of Arvada, we make our winding way up the mountain. At the first tunnel, there is a Union Pacific freight train stopped exiting the tunnel. As the tunnel is only one track, we need to wait for him to pass us before we can proceed. Twenty minutes later, the UP begins backing up through the tunnel. Five minutes later, we make our way through the tunnel.
From 9:55 until 10:31 we go through 18 tunnels, in between wonderful views of Arvada, CO and the surrounding area.
We continue to be hampered by UP. At 10:33, we stop for a red signal a 7212 is head of us. We lose seven minutes. At 10:53, the conductor makes an announcement that one of the UP trains head of us has engine problems, forcing us to move at 9 mph. They are going 9 mph. I heard chatter earlier about someone’s engine bucking and cutting off, just like it did yesterday, but didn’t realize it was the train ahead of us.
At 12:11 p.m., we finally get to the east side of Moffat Tunnel, where we are greeted by a red signal. Twenty minutes later we start through the long tunnel.
We finally arrive Fraser/Winter Park at 12:53, which is 2:46 late.
The delays continue heading to Glenwood Springs. We have a pair of 15-minute stops, including one at Shoshone, with a nice view of a hiking and boating area. During one of the delays, the eastbound Zephyr passes us near Allen, CO.
When the train arrives at Glenwood Springs, we are 3:01 behind schedule, but we cut the deficit to 3:01 at Grand Junction.
Memo to Amtrak: Fix your #@$#@$ vending machines. While Grand Junction features a fruit stand and gift shop which sells ice cream, both the vending machine was out of order and the change machine was out of change. Earlier in the day, the Pepsi machine in Denver was completely empty, as well. In this time of budget cuts, how is it that you don’t want my money?
After Grand Junction, we decided to again dine in our sleeper car. I had a hamburger and she had the same choice as last night – chicken. Once again, both were good choices. We watched the sunset over the Utah mountains during our meals just before we pulled into Green River, Utah 2:59 behind at 8:57.
From 9:55 until 10:31 we go through 18 tunnels, in between wonderful views of Arvada, CO and the surrounding area.
We continue to be hampered by UP. At 10:33, we stop for a red signal a 7212 is head of us. We lose seven minutes. At 10:53, the conductor makes an announcement that one of the UP trains head of us has engine problems, forcing us to move at 9 mph. They are going 9 mph. I heard chatter earlier about someone’s engine bucking and cutting off, just like it did yesterday, but didn’t realize it was the train ahead of us.
At 12:11 p.m., we finally get to the east side of Moffat Tunnel, where we are greeted by a red signal. Twenty minutes later we start through the long tunnel.
We finally arrive Fraser/Winter Park at 12:53, which is 2:46 late.
The delays continue heading to Glenwood Springs. We have a pair of 15-minute stops, including one at Shoshone, with a nice view of a hiking and boating area. During one of the delays, the eastbound Zephyr passes us near Allen, CO.
When the train arrives at Glenwood Springs, we are 3:01 behind schedule, but we cut the deficit to 3:01 at Grand Junction.
Memo to Amtrak: Fix your #@$#@$ vending machines. While Grand Junction features a fruit stand and gift shop which sells ice cream, both the vending machine was out of order and the change machine was out of change. Earlier in the day, the Pepsi machine in Denver was completely empty, as well. In this time of budget cuts, how is it that you don’t want my money?
After Grand Junction, we decided to again dine in our sleeper car. I had a hamburger and she had the same choice as last night – chicken. Once again, both were good choices. We watched the sunset over the Utah mountains during our meals just before we pulled into Green River, Utah 2:59 behind at 8:57.
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Making Up Time In Denver
After sleeping through most of Nebraska, I awake at 6:42 a.m. MT, as we quickly stop at Fort Morgan, CO. We have only lost seven minutes during the night and are 1:27 behind heading to Denver.
I take this as my cue, hustling downstairs to the bathroom and shower. Last night, a passenger said there was no hot water. Roy reset the breaker and I was hoping that solved the problem. Sure enough, the water was hot – very hot to be exact – and perfect for the shave I had neglected yesterday.
As I get dressed and update the blog, we go through Denver and then back into the station. We arrive at 8:10 and with the help of some schedule padding, gain back more than 30 minutes of lost time.
I take this as my cue, hustling downstairs to the bathroom and shower. Last night, a passenger said there was no hot water. Roy reset the breaker and I was hoping that solved the problem. Sure enough, the water was hot – very hot to be exact – and perfect for the shave I had neglected yesterday.
As I get dressed and update the blog, we go through Denver and then back into the station. We arrive at 8:10 and with the help of some schedule padding, gain back more than 30 minutes of lost time.
Dinner Over An Iowa Sunset
Not much to report Saturday afternoon/evening. We continue to lose time through, leaving Naperville 50 minutes behind schedule. After crossing the Mississippi, we leave Burlington at 6:10, which puts us 55 minutes back.
We have brought food on this trip – a collection of sandwiches, beef jerky and other snacks, along with wine and champagne – so we did not eat dinner or breakfast on the Capitol Limited. We decide to have dinner tonight, but instead of going to the dining car, we have Roy bring our meal to our room.
I’ve heard mixed things about the new Simplified Dining Service, but when we both get the chicken – our favorite on the old menu – we are pleasantly surprised. The chicken is as good or better than before. My mashed potatoes and her rice are also above average and the cheesecake is very good. I’ll have to give Amtrak a thumbs up on my first SDS experience. Of course, seeing all the cornfields out the windows, a couple of ears of corn would be nice!
We watch the sunset over the Iowa countryside before calling it a night shortly after we leave Creston at 9:51 p.m., 1:20 behind schedule.
We have brought food on this trip – a collection of sandwiches, beef jerky and other snacks, along with wine and champagne – so we did not eat dinner or breakfast on the Capitol Limited. We decide to have dinner tonight, but instead of going to the dining car, we have Roy bring our meal to our room.
I’ve heard mixed things about the new Simplified Dining Service, but when we both get the chicken – our favorite on the old menu – we are pleasantly surprised. The chicken is as good or better than before. My mashed potatoes and her rice are also above average and the cheesecake is very good. I’ll have to give Amtrak a thumbs up on my first SDS experience. Of course, seeing all the cornfields out the windows, a couple of ears of corn would be nice!
We watch the sunset over the Iowa countryside before calling it a night shortly after we leave Creston at 9:51 p.m., 1:20 behind schedule.
Saturday, August 26, 2006
Delays At Both Ends in Chicago
The delays continue entering Chicago. After dropping the baggage cars, we sit on the track for 45 minutes before finally backing into the station. We finally arrive at the station at 1 p.m., which puts us 4 ½ hours late for the trip.
We check into the Metropolitan Lounge at 1:15 p.m. and are told to stay close by as boarding for California Zephyr 5 will be momentarily. This is just enough time to run upstairs to the food court and buy some brats and dogs for a late lunch.
Of course, after we make the mad dash for some food and get back to the lounge an announcement is made that the train is not yet ready to be boarded.
Around 2 p.m. we board the train and are greeted by our car attendant, Roy. While stowing my gear, I turn on the scanner and hear that the train is being delayed because there are no dinner plates, which need to be delivered from the commissary. While we wait for the dinner plates to make the train, we decide to eat.
California Zephyr 5 consist
1). Primary Engine 207
2). Secondary Engine 72
3). Baggage Car 1717
4). Transition Sleeper 32047 (Car 520)
5). Sleeper 32085 (Car 532) – We are in Car 2
6). Sleeper 32043
7). Dining Car 38007
8). Lounge Car 33032
9). Coach 34097 (Car 510)
10). Coach 34031 (Car 511)
11). Coach 31041 (Car 512)
We leave the station at 2:30 p.m., already 40 minutes behind schedule.
We check into the Metropolitan Lounge at 1:15 p.m. and are told to stay close by as boarding for California Zephyr 5 will be momentarily. This is just enough time to run upstairs to the food court and buy some brats and dogs for a late lunch.
Of course, after we make the mad dash for some food and get back to the lounge an announcement is made that the train is not yet ready to be boarded.
Around 2 p.m. we board the train and are greeted by our car attendant, Roy. While stowing my gear, I turn on the scanner and hear that the train is being delayed because there are no dinner plates, which need to be delivered from the commissary. While we wait for the dinner plates to make the train, we decide to eat.
California Zephyr 5 consist
1). Primary Engine 207
2). Secondary Engine 72
3). Baggage Car 1717
4). Transition Sleeper 32047 (Car 520)
5). Sleeper 32085 (Car 532) – We are in Car 2
6). Sleeper 32043
7). Dining Car 38007
8). Lounge Car 33032
9). Coach 34097 (Car 510)
10). Coach 34031 (Car 511)
11). Coach 31041 (Car 512)
We leave the station at 2:30 p.m., already 40 minutes behind schedule.
Be Careful What You Wish For
During my Amtrak trips, I hope and plan on delays that will make my experience last that much longer. This is especially the case on the Capitol Limited, which is scheduled to arrive in Chicago at 8:30 a.m., since I am not a morning person. However, my wish for a delay has been granted, but it may cost me a chance to get lunch at the Famous Billy Goat Tavern, which I documented in a previous trip post: (http://manypims.blogspot.com/2006/02/cheezborger-cheezborger-cheezborger.html)
After leaving South Bend at 10:47 a.m. (which puts us 3:24 behind schedule), we go about five miles before coming to a halt next to a large factory. An announcement is made that there are freight trains ahead of us and one may have mechanical difficulties. Two go past and we then move about 100 yards before stopping again. Finally, 40 minutes after leaving South Bend, we begin moving again, following Lakeshore Limited 49 (25) to Chicago.
After leaving South Bend at 10:47 a.m. (which puts us 3:24 behind schedule), we go about five miles before coming to a halt next to a large factory. An announcement is made that there are freight trains ahead of us and one may have mechanical difficulties. Two go past and we then move about 100 yards before stopping again. Finally, 40 minutes after leaving South Bend, we begin moving again, following Lakeshore Limited 49 (25) to Chicago.
Freight Accident Brings Delay
I wake up at 7:45 a.m. thinking we are well into Indiana. However, when I turn on the computer and GPS, that is not the case. We are only approaching Toledo, which means we are three hours late – and counting. We approach the Toledo station, but Train No. 49 I in the station. We sit for about five minutes before pulling into the station at 8:03 a.m.
While in Toledo, I ask Lou the reason for the delay, assuming we were stuck behind a freight train. Lou says there was an accident last night east of Sandusky, Ohio with a fatality as a Norfolk Southern train hit a vehicle. We were delayed as they cleared the scene. We will file this under breaking railroad news. Our delay is now 3:15 as we leave Toledo.
While in Toledo, I ask Lou the reason for the delay, assuming we were stuck behind a freight train. Lou says there was an accident last night east of Sandusky, Ohio with a fatality as a Norfolk Southern train hit a vehicle. We were delayed as they cleared the scene. We will file this under breaking railroad news. Our delay is now 3:15 as we leave Toledo.
Friday, August 25, 2006
Finally, Some Wireless Coverage
Capitol Limited Consist
1). Primary Engine 156
2). Secondary Engine
3). Baggage Car 1857
4). Transition Sleeper 39033 (Car 2909)
5). Sleeper Car 32059 (Car 2901) – We are in Room 2
6). Sleeper Car 32095 (Car 2900)
7). Dining Car 38065
8). Lounge Car 33046
9). Coach Car 31010 (Car 3030)
10). Coach Car 34137 (Car 3332)
11). Coach Car 31020 (Car 3031)
12). Freight Car 74030
13). Freight Car 74062
At 7:25, we pass through Green Spring, WV. According to Lou, who is directly across from us in Room 1, all of the railroad ties used on the East Coast are made in Green Spring’s massive facility. And, for you railroad trivia buffs, those ties are soaked in creosote, which is also used to protect telephone poles.
I also hear Lou tell a passenger that he is approaching his 20-year anniversary working for Amtrak. In addition to the Capitol Limited, he has worked on former sleeper routes to Montreal and Boston, as well as routes to Charleston and New York.
At 7:41, we stop in Cumberland for a crew change. Cumberland is also a smoke stop, but since the platform is not long enough, we must wait 10 minutes until the new engineer pulls the train forward. We decide to stretch our legs and walk six cars back and detrain in the last coach car, which has passengers from Pittsburgh and stops prior. After a 10-minute break, the train leaves Cumberland at 8:01, 52 minutes behind schedule.
At 9:30, we stop near Meyersdale, PA. On the scanner, I hear someone – likely a freight train – say that they are getting out of Amtrak’s way. Two minutes later, a freight engine with no cars passes us, but we continue to stand still. I see only one track outside so it appears that we are on one of the main tracks and not a siding. Four minutes later, Engine 156 says he is clear, our horn sounds and we begin moving again, but under 10 mph, possibly under a restriction? Several minutes later, after going through what appears to be a small rail yard, we resume our normal speed.
1). Primary Engine 156
2). Secondary Engine
3). Baggage Car 1857
4). Transition Sleeper 39033 (Car 2909)
5). Sleeper Car 32059 (Car 2901) – We are in Room 2
6). Sleeper Car 32095 (Car 2900)
7). Dining Car 38065
8). Lounge Car 33046
9). Coach Car 31010 (Car 3030)
10). Coach Car 34137 (Car 3332)
11). Coach Car 31020 (Car 3031)
12). Freight Car 74030
13). Freight Car 74062
At 7:25, we pass through Green Spring, WV. According to Lou, who is directly across from us in Room 1, all of the railroad ties used on the East Coast are made in Green Spring’s massive facility. And, for you railroad trivia buffs, those ties are soaked in creosote, which is also used to protect telephone poles.
I also hear Lou tell a passenger that he is approaching his 20-year anniversary working for Amtrak. In addition to the Capitol Limited, he has worked on former sleeper routes to Montreal and Boston, as well as routes to Charleston and New York.
At 7:41, we stop in Cumberland for a crew change. Cumberland is also a smoke stop, but since the platform is not long enough, we must wait 10 minutes until the new engineer pulls the train forward. We decide to stretch our legs and walk six cars back and detrain in the last coach car, which has passengers from Pittsburgh and stops prior. After a 10-minute break, the train leaves Cumberland at 8:01, 52 minutes behind schedule.
At 9:30, we stop near Meyersdale, PA. On the scanner, I hear someone – likely a freight train – say that they are getting out of Amtrak’s way. Two minutes later, a freight engine with no cars passes us, but we continue to stand still. I see only one track outside so it appears that we are on one of the main tracks and not a siding. Four minutes later, Engine 156 says he is clear, our horn sounds and we begin moving again, but under 10 mph, possibly under a restriction? Several minutes later, after going through what appears to be a small rail yard, we resume our normal speed.
Late Leaving D.C.
We board Capitol Limited 29 and are greeted by our car attendant, Lou. We are in Sleeper 32059 (Car 2901), Room 2. As I unpack my computer, I turn on the scanner. According to the trackside chatter, we will be slightly delayed as they are still loading baggage from a train that was delayed.
We leave the station at 4:08 p.m., 13 minutes behind schedule. The train moves slowly leaving D.C., being passed by the Metro several times, and we lose more time at Rockville, departing 30 minutes behind schedule.
During the past week or so, the Capitol Limited has arrived in Chicago anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 ½ hours late. My guess is that we will arrive in Chicago tomorrow morning 1 ½ hours late at 10 a.m. CT.
We leave the station at 4:08 p.m., 13 minutes behind schedule. The train moves slowly leaving D.C., being passed by the Metro several times, and we lose more time at Rockville, departing 30 minutes behind schedule.
During the past week or so, the Capitol Limited has arrived in Chicago anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 ½ hours late. My guess is that we will arrive in Chicago tomorrow morning 1 ½ hours late at 10 a.m. CT.
San Diego Trip II
Using a Verizon wireless internet card, Microsoft Streets & Trips with GPS and a Sony Cyber-shot digital camera, I will document our trip from Washington, D.C. to San Diego via public transportation, rail and air.
At 12:35 p.m., we arrive at the satellite parking lot at Washington Dulles International Airport. We take the parking shuttle to the main terminal where we board the 1:15 Washington Flyer bus to the West Falls Church Metro. The cost for a one-way trip from the airport to the closest Metro station is $9 per person per ticket.
We board an Orange line Metro train at 1:40 and, 10 stops later, change trains at Metro Center at 2:05. We take the Red line to Union Station, arriving at 2:10.
We check in to Club Acela and an hour later boarding begins around 3:25 p.m.
At 12:35 p.m., we arrive at the satellite parking lot at Washington Dulles International Airport. We take the parking shuttle to the main terminal where we board the 1:15 Washington Flyer bus to the West Falls Church Metro. The cost for a one-way trip from the airport to the closest Metro station is $9 per person per ticket.
We board an Orange line Metro train at 1:40 and, 10 stops later, change trains at Metro Center at 2:05. We take the Red line to Union Station, arriving at 2:10.
We check in to Club Acela and an hour later boarding begins around 3:25 p.m.
Sunday, February 05, 2006
San Diego At Last
We arrive at San Diego’s Old Town station at 9:55 a.m. and can’t find a cab anywhere. After waiting at the cab stand for 10 minutes, we finally get a ride to Enterprise Rent-A-Car. I had reserved a standard class car via the Internet several weeks back and got to pick from several makes and models. As I glance at the overcast sky, Mike from Enterprise tells me not to worry, the clouds will break in an hour. I choose a black 2006 Volkswagen Jetta, which is a sleek ride to say the least.
It only takes five minutes to get from Enterprise to our hotel, the Bahia Resort Hotel on Mission Bay. Despite arriving at 10:45, we are able to check in. Our room is on the fourth floor with a semi-decent view of Mission Bay and the hotel property. And, as Mike predicted, the sun is starting to peek through the clouds.
After three nights on the train, it’s time for a real shower. Then we’re going to have lunch and find a place to watch the Super Bowl.
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